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For better or worse, Coturri's wines stand out from the crowd
By Uncorked | Monday, April 10, 2006, 07:19 AM Tony Coturri brought his distinctive Ñ very distinctive Ñ wines to Dayton Saturday. If you had a chance to taste with him at Arrow's Centerville store Saturday afternoon, it's unlikely Ñ no, it's impossible Ñ that you walked away with a neutral opinion. Coturri, third-generation winemaker and owner of Coturri Winery in Glen Ellen, CA, produces reds that seem designed to provoke a reaction. They are deeply extracted, teeth-staining wines made from ultra-ripe, organically grown grapes fermented with natural yeasts and no added sulfites. It's too bad Ravenswood snatched up the "No Wimpy Wines" motto, because it rightfully belongs to Coturri. The workhorses in the Coturri lineup are the zinfandels, many of them made in a late-harvest dessert style reminiscent of the old Sky zins. In his written descriptions of his 2002 Sonoma Valley Zin ($16.99) and 2004 Chauvet Vineyards Zin ($29.99), Coturri uses the word "sweet" and notes that the Chauvet is "great as an after-dinner dessert drink," and both do have a noticeable raisened sweetness to them. Yet his 2003 Estate Vineyard Sonoma Mountain Zin ($36.99) is drier, with a noticeable beam of bright acidity. The sweeter versions of Coturri's zins could be a godsend for retailers who are asked every other day or so whether they offer sweet red wines, and who usually are stuck recommending lesser-quality wines. But there is little or no indication I found on Coturri's labels of what style of wine is in the bottle. Maybe a residual sugar reading or a "late-harvest" or "dessert" designation should be considered. If I purchase a Chauvet Vineyards Zin off the shelf thinking it will taste like other dry red zins, I am in for a big surprise when I pull the cork. Coturri also makes a 2004 Maclise Vineyards Merlot ($24.99) that is intensely ripe and a bit sweet, and an intriguing 2004 Testa Vineyards Carignane from Mendocino ($17.99) that has deep fruit and bright acidity that would pair well with garlicky tomato-based sauces. Coturri's wines will be paired with a Wild Game dinner at 7 p.m. Tuesday night (4-11-06) at the Burgundy Room in Columbus. Call 617-798-9463 for details or to make reservations. Lovers of wimpy wines need not apply. Thanks for reading, and cheers! Mark Fisher |
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